Fearlessness is ignorance, and it’s lack of respect – If you’re not scared then you don’t have respect. There’s no way on earth you can go out and look at waves of that magnitude and not respect it enough to fear it.
This whole “no fear” concept – in a way there is no such thing. If you don’t have fear than it’s just a matter of time.
My favorite old saying is, “There are old pilots and there are bold pilots, but there are no old bold pilots.”
From Surfer Magazine August 2003